Tenuta Villa Lavinia
Civita di Bagnoregio on its tufa ridge, reached by a long footbridge, with the valley below.

Northern Lazio, north of Rome

The places behind the flavours.

Tufa ridges, painted tombs, papal towns and thermal water. This is Tuscia, in northern Lazio, north of Rome: the country the week is cooked from.

Civita di Bagnoregio

A town reached on foot.

The footbridge is the only way in, which changes the way you arrive. The week visits it on the first full day, before a tasting and lunch at Cantina 3 Botti, a separate winery nearby.

Uneven paving and a steady climb from the bridge.

Two glasses of white wine and a platter of local food on a table outdoors.
Palazzo Farnese at Caprarola seen from above, with its pentagonal plan, terraces and formal gardens.

Caprarola

A palace built for showing off.

The Farnese staircase, the painted rooms and the gardens, followed by a regional lunch — then a main course and fresh pasta back in the kitchen.

Canino

Oil, taken seriously.

A visit to an olive oil producer at Canino — a name that means something in Italian oil — to see production and taste fresh oils at the source. The estate's own groves are here at Vitorchiano; the Canino producer is a separate business.

green, and just pressed

Stainless olive-oil production equipment in a working mill.
Rows of olive trees on sloping ground under an open sky.
A painted Etruscan tomb chamber with figures on the plastered wall.

Tarquinia

Painted rooms, underground.

The Etruscan necropolis and the museum, on the last full day, followed by a pastry session and the farewell dinner. There are steps down into the tombs.

Viterbo & the thermal water

A morning at Terme dei Papi, or the historic centre of Viterbo instead — the alternative is offered on request. Vitorchiano sits close to the city, in the same corner of northern Lazio.